Monday, July 26, 2010

Paris and (the art of) ageing

I went to Paris two years ago, went back last year and will be spending about a week there again in a couple of months. Nooooo! I'm not bragging hahaha :-) Ok, maybe just a tad. But only because it's my favorite city in the world. The Philippines is my country, but Paris is my hometown, haha as one American writer put it.

I prepared this photo tour simply because I vowed to take better pictures this year, see more open markets and try out the following:

1. a rabbit dish (lapin)
2. mussels with fries (moules frites)
3. snails (escargots)
4. all kinds of foie gras
5. kir or pastis or both!

I also need to go back to Café du Marché, try Les Fêtes Galantes and L'As du Falafel, go to the open markets at Rue Raspail and Rue Mouffetard..... arghhhh I'll lose my mind if I think about it too hard.

On my very first visit two years ago, we stayed at Campanile Berthier Clichy. The hotel was ideal only because it was right across a Metro station, walking distance to an internet cafe and there was a brasserie nearby which served this yummy, authentic carbonara.


A major realization: the real carbonara shouldn't be swimming in cream, and it's served with fresh egg on top.


My friend Renei and I walked around aimlessly the first two days and had Nutella crêpes just at the entrance of Jardins des Tuileries. The girl did it so deftly and skillfully we didn't mind at all that she didn't have gloves on haha! On our second visit, last year, we went to the same place and I had Gran Marnier crêpe.

Who says you can't have your liquor and eat it too huh?


Our French friends also took us to an open market. Again, I should've paid attention to details. All I know is that it was not Raspail or Mouffetard. Nonetheless, my senses swam and revelled in the colors, the smell and the flavors!

My least favorite was the meat stall, because my heart just felt heavy seeing the skinned rabbits. I couldn't find it in my heart to describe it then, now I'm vowing to eat it... tsk tsk tsk. All for the love of food. Anyway, I remember having walked past the fresh meats towards the fruit section.


If you look closer, you'd agree that this guy bears a striking resemblance to Robert Deniro. Haha! The cherries in Nuremburg were cheaper, but I remember I did bring back to my hotel a bag of these yummy cherries.


And then of course the cheese, the wine, the dry sausages..... all aged and pricey... the older the better yeah?


This got me to thinkin'..... what's with Paris and aged stuff anyway? Even the buildings are mostly old, save for a few modern ones here and there like the Centre Pompidou, La Defense and the rather ghastly Tour Montparnasse.



Even the most ordinary street corners like the one above seems to proudly stand out, basking in its.... old-ness (I really should be more adventurous with my adjectives!).

But just because Paris represents everything old doesn't alter the fact that I'm in love with it! Maybe it's because I don't feel poor when I'm there? I can go to the market four to five times a week like most locals, and buy wine, cheese, cornichons, salad, foie gras ---- for only one person! Just a little of the best, just a little bit of what the rich could enjoy with abundance. And the old streets and buildings, bistros and cafes make me feel just.... warm inside.


I can sit and have café crème on the same spot Hemingway and Oscar WIlde did did years ago, listen to a string quartet or rap artist in the subway, go sunbathing at Place des Vosges, party with strangers at Champ de Mars with the Eiffel not far behind.



All these with just a few Metro tickets and some Euro coins. Who wouldn't want to live in this city and just bask in the glories of yesteryears, on the same old streets and old beautiful buildings, so old they're no higher than six or seven floors, with open courtyards inside, with no elevators. Same old cafés and bistros and brasseries and hotels.

The oldest subway in Europe if not the world, if I'm not mistaken, is the Paris Metro, having been built in the 1900's. Yeah, that fact alone is so cool you could almost overlook the fact that some stations are really dirty and dank and scary. Haha!

Now I know for sure. I love Paris because it is a reflection of a personal resolve: I too must age beautifully! Like the French wine, cheese, dry sausages. My heart is one with this culture of ageing with grace, of loving what's old not for what it was but for what it has become. 49 days to Paris. Arghhh. Can we skip August yet? :-)

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